======== Newsgroups: rec.autos.makers.ford.explorer Subject: Re: Explorer FAQ location? - exp-faq.txt [01/01] From: macala@norac.com (Jerry Macala) Date: 30 Sep 1996 17:23:04 -0700 In article <32468AE5.2DE6@iserv.net>, Ron wrote: >Does anyone know where I can find the Explorer FAQ. I read it a few >months ago, but can't locate it any more.... BEGIN -- Cut Here -- cut here What follows is quite literally a FAQ- frequently asked questions from the Ford Explorer List. OK, so maybe they weren’t “frequently” asked, but they would have been if the answers that follow were not so good. It’s a bit long and probably contains some stuff that no one really cares about. It almost certainly lacks the depth of information you might be accustomed to finding in a FAQ. Take it for what it’s worth! Please distribute this document in any form you see fit, as long as no money is charged for the privilege. I’ll be adding to the document periodically as new, interesting stuff is posted to the list. I might prune it back a bit as well from time to time. Comments to: Jerry Macala 12/29/95 Ford Explorer FAQ I. HOW DO I REMOVE THE DOOR PANELS? 2 II. WHAT KIND OF MILEAGE CAN I EXPECT TO GET? 3 III. WHERE CAN I GET EXPLORER INFO ON THE WEB? 5 IV. HOW DO I FIX THE AIRCONDITIONER VENTS? 6 V. HOW DO I HOOK UP TRAILER LIGHTS? 8 VI. HOW DOES THE LIFTGATE ACTIVATE THE DOME LIGHT? 8 VII. WHAT IS THE PROPER TIRE PRESSURE? 9 VIII. WHAT COMPUTER CHIP UPGRADES ARE AVAILABLE? 10 IX. WHAT CAUSES MY TRANSMISSION TO PING? 10 X. WHERE CAN I GET THE REAR CARGO STORAGE BOX? 11 XI. WHAT ARE SOME SOURCES FOR EXPLORER ACCESSORIES? 13 XII. HOW DO I HOOK UP AN AFTERMARKET CD PLAYER? 13 XIII. HOW DO I REPLACE THE RADIUS ARM BUSHINGS? 14 XIV. HOW OFTEN SHOULD I CHANGE MY OIL? 15 XV. HOW CAN I UPGRADE MY EXPLORER’S PERFORMANCE? 17 XVI. HOW CAN I FIX SCRATCHES IN MY CLEARCOAT? 18 XVII. WHERE CAN I GET AN ADD-ON REAR SEAT? 19 XVIII. WHAT MAKES MY STICK SHIFT GRIND? 21 XIX. HOW CAN I ADD THE DRL (DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS) MODULE? 23 XX. HOW CAN I FIND OUT ABOUT THE HATCHBACK RECALL? 26 XXI. HOW CAN I FIX A BROKEN ARMREST? 26 XXII. HOW CAN I GET 4WD TO DISENGAGE? 27 XXIII. HOW DO I REPAIR THE RADIATOR? 31 XXIV. WHERE CAN I GET MORE EXPLORER INFORMATION? 32 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- I. How do I remove the door panels? Date: Sat, 8 Jul 1995 15:57:41 -0700 (PDT) From: rah@netcom.com (Richard Hyde) To: explorer Subject: Re: Removing door panels Message-Id: <199507082257.PAA20236@netcom20.netcom.com> > EX¯is cutting out intermittently and I think it's a loose wire. There are > EX¯screws near the door pull and one at the top front of the panel (nearest > EX¯front end of truck). I removed these and started yanking, but it seems > EX¯like it's on there good. I didn't want to start breaking clips. Has > EX¯anyone done this recently? Where are the clips (and how many)? What's > EX¯the easiest way to get the panel off without breaking something? I brought my Explorer to the mechanic to lube the left-rear window rails - I did this precisely because I could not figure out how to remove the door panels without breaking something. I then had him show me how to do it. First, he claims the door panels fit more tightly than any other he has seen. This accouts for the difficulty we have had in trying to just pull them off by hand. To get to the clips, he used a special tool. Imagine a long, thin putty knife or a wide flat screwdriver with a "V" notch in the end of the blade. The notch was about 3/4 of an inch deep and perhaps 3/8 inch wide - much like the nail-puller on a hammer, you insert the blade of the clip puller behind the door cover and feel about for the first clip. You position the clip within the notch of the tool and then use a levering motion to pop the clip free. Note that the tool has a bend in the handle - like that on the end of a prybar, so that you push on the handle of the tool to lever the clip out of the door. Once you have the firct clip pulled out, you can see behind the door panel to find the rest of the clips. Before you go popping clips, you must: 1) remove the two screws in the door handle. 2) remove the power window switch (it pops out if you use a small screwdriver under one edge). 3) remove the black plastic panel that surrounds the door handle - afain, it just pops out. Happy searching! Rick --------------------------------------------------------------------------- II. What kind of mileage can I expect to get? Date: Sun, 9 Jul 1995 09:27:51 -0400 From: pebly@emi.net (Bob Pebly) To: explorer Subject: Horrible milage Message-Id: <199507091327.JAA02202@athens.emi.net> >I love my Explorer but I am getting horrible milage with it. I have a >1995 XLT Explorer (945A package) with the 3.73 Limit Slip towing package >and the slightly bigger OWL tires. > >Also note I live in New York City which uses the 'airated' (sp?) gas >which is beeter for emissions. > >I need to fill my fuel tank every 250 miles! With a 21 gallon tank, that >comes out to about 12 mpg. I'd say the split is 80% city driving and 20% >highway driving. > >Is anyone else (with a similiar truck) getting numbers like these? You can't just take your miles between fillups and divide by the tank size to calculate your mileage, that is only accurate if you run out of gas every time before filling up. To get a more accurate picture, divide the miles on a particular tank by the number of gallons you actually pump to refill it. A few residual gallons in the tank could make a few MPG difference in your calculation. Having said all that, I find that my similarly equipped '91 XLT averages about 17mpg with a mix of 75/25 city/highway driving. I believe the original EPA numbers for the '91 were 17/21 city/highway, so that's about right. Bob ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 09 Jul 95 19:31:23 From: "Olson, Dave" To: explorer Subject: Message not deliverable Message-Id: <9506098053.AA805343483@mde.mde.com> In reference to the discussion on mileage. We just returned from a trip of over 5000 miles. I have a '95 XLT with 945a package, and the trailer towing package which has the 3.73 differential. I have the OWL tires as well. Our mileage averaged 20.7 for the entire trip. Our best tank was almost 23 MPG and the poorest was about 18. This of course was highway driving. Our experience in town is around 17 or so for lots of stop and go. On the highway trip we would fill up after about 325 miles and still have good reserve. Is this mileage pretty typical? Seems to me to be what I would expect for a 5,000 lb.. rig. Dave Olson Vashon Island, Washington ------------------------------ Date: 10 Jul 1995 13:32:05 GMT From: drobbins@BayNetworks.com (David Robbins) To: explorer Subject: Re: '95 Mileage Message-Id: <1961950.93448201@BayNetworks.com> In my 95 XLT with 945a package, 3.55/automatic I average about 17.5 mpg. I have not seen less than 17, and have only seen 19 when it was mostly highway with no air conditioning. This generally translates to filling up after about 325 miles (right when the "CHECK GAGES" light comes on which is with ~2 gallons to go). ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 10 Jul 1995 08:52:13 -0600 From: Stacey Lane To: explorer Subject: re: horrible mileage Message-Id: >I love my Explorer but I am getting horrible milage with it. ...... After reading a couple of the responses to this original posting I decided to respond. You're not alone! We have a '93 Sport 4x4 and have tried NUMEROUS things to get our mileage up...to no avail. We average around 12/18. Yes, you're reading that correctly. We have *never* gotten above 20 mpg on any trip. We have made numerous 300+ mile trips and usually get about 18.5 on those trips. We calculate mileage on every fill-up. (and yes, I do know the correct way to calculate it!) Our driving is about 50%/60% -- 50% city/60% highway. And when towing anything .. well, you may as well forget it! We've towed a U-Haul trailer and other assorted small trailers and averaged between 8-12 on those trips. But in normal everyday driving we usually are around 12-13. (And I thought the Camaro I traded in on this got bad mileage at 17!) Oh well, I still love it! Just wish it didn't suck down the gas like it does! Stacey Columbia, MO --------------------------------------------------------------------------- III. Where can I get explorer info on the web? Date: Mon, 10 Jul 95 13:08:08 CDT From: agross@cray.com To: explorer Subject: Official Ford Web Site Message-Id: <9507101808.AA08356@steamboat.cray.com> Visit the new Official Ford web site at: http://www.ford.com/home.html or go directly to the Explorer page at: http://www.ford.com/showrooms/ford/utility/Explorer/info.html Be sure to register on the Ford Customer Link page: http://www.ford.com/customers/CLinkSurvey.html Ford is interested in your comments and os seeking internet users who are interested in providing input on new product ideas and designs. enjoy, al Alan Grossmeier /`-_ Chippewa Falls, WI { . }/ PREVENT FOREST FIRES agross@cray.com \ / Register Matches agross1001@aol.com |___| ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 Jul 1995 08:38:39 -0700 From: emerich@mail.sdsu.edu (Carl Emerich) To: explorer Subject: Tech. Service Notices Message-Id: For those of you who have WWW, here is a site that lists all the recall and tech service notices for about every major auto maker's car you can think of... http://www.alldata.tsb.com/ The data is by year, maker, type and engine size....it is amazing how the tech notices match most all the concerns I have read on this list....knowledge is power when making your case to a dealer or Ford... Carl --------------------------------------------------------------------------- IV. How do I fix the airconditioner vents? Date: Thu, 06 Jul 1995 6:43:28 PDT From: Bill Spikes To: explorer Subject: Re: Ford Explorer List Digest V02 #161 Message-Id: <199507061343.AA285248209@hpscit.sc.hp.com> ***LONG*** article on how to fix an AC problem follows. If yours is workin' fine, well, feel lucky. Yesterday, some fool wrote: > Date: Wed, 05 Jul 1995 6:58:05 PDT > From: Bill Spikes > > I think I remember seeing someone else with this problem and may have > missed the fix. > > Air conditioner controls: Sometimes (pretty definitive, huh?) the ac will > only blow at 1/2 power with reduced cooling. While driving along, all of > a sudden it sounds like a door opened somewhere under the dash and the ac > begins working like it should. It is not the fan. Playing with the controls > has no effect. The CLOSEST I could come was that maybe there was a vacuum > challanged vaccum motor under there. A sticking door. A crimped hose. A bad > control switch. So far it has done it 3 times. Maybe more, as the wifes > reporting of errors, defects, strange noises, and huge clouds of smoke > and vapor is somewhat, uh, non-existent. She did catch that SCREEEECCHING > power steering pump on her Vette after 6 blocks!!! #-\ > > So, before I assume ONE of my LEAST favorite postions of laying upside down on > a seat track with face under the dash....which door/vac motor/hose is the > culprit? Anyone find it yet? Or should I just stop complaining and get under > there and start swearing? > > > Thanks and Have a Good Ford Summer, > > Bill Never mind, I figured it out. The flapper door that tells the fan wind to go to either the floor or the dash would not quite close. For some of you that are having "uncool" air conditioning or the sudden surge of cool, this might be your problem too. The way to see it is to look into the left riders side vent (wear safty glasses) with a *STRONG* small flashlight. As the upper control is moved either direction, you should see the door (well, at least its sponge-lined edge) moving. It should be in its full closed position from about the 'n' in 'panel/floor' all the way to 'off'. The problem was that it didn't quite close all the way, allowing most of the cold air to cool the carpet, not your face. If the door is wiggling in the breeze on full blast in the 'max' position, this adjustment will help ya. If you don't really want to fix this right NOW, then you might be able to get the door to close by slamming the control from mid range all the way to 'off' and then slowly into 'max'. This seemed to make the door close ok until the next time the control was moved to 'panel/floor' or farther. We'll not discuss the radio/ashtray/dash removal at this time! :( The real reason the door doesn't close is that Ford put this LONG slip cable ~2,1/2 footer in there where a 6"'er could have gone and the cable has too much friction. The fix was actually pretty easy (once the dashboard expedition was over...). Open the glove box. Squeeze in both upper edges of the box so that the open stops come past the hole in the dash. This will allow you to swing the door all the way down. Now pick up all the junk that just fell all over the floor. You'll see two slip cables there. I think the blue guy controls the warm/cold door. The cream or opaque/white one runs up to left into the "adjustment" clip. (REEEEEALLY stretching that word.) With that same flashlight, move the control while watching the cables end. You'll see a knob on white nylon with a coil of wire around it. Pay attention to how this works in case you need to slip the coil over the knob in the future. The coil is the end of the slip cable. There is a metal clip that is snapped into the top of the air plenum that is holding the white cable. The idea here is to unsnap the cable from this clip, push the cable towards the center of the car about 1/8" - 1/4" and snap the cable back down into the clip. Sounds easy, huh? Well, I suppose, for some people, it could be. <:-( What this does is put a little more force on the door to close itself starting at about the 'n' in 'panel/floor' all the way to 'off'. Actually, I made sure the door was fully closed by the 'e' in 'panel/floor' because the 'floor' area has plenty of space. This may sound wierd. Play with the control, you'll see what I mean. Beware, when you are spreading the ears on the clip with your thumb while gently pulling up on the cable to get it out of the clip....the clip may pull off of the plenum. This is no big deal...unless...the clip also comes off the cable at the same time...and...falls down into all the junk behind the dash. If you managed to catch it before it got lost, check to make sure that the two little cable-grabbing teeth are sharp before you put it back into the plenum. If the wire coil comes off the nylon nub, just slip it back on, under the nylon lip just above it. This is easier if you bend the cable enough to the rear of the car to get the coil under the nub. The cable can also be popped out of the clip with a long shank narrow- bladed screwdriver. Don't dent the cable while doing it this way. You really don't want to know what I think of these clips as opposed to a real adjustement "U" held down by a screw. All that is left is to squeeze the door stops on the glove box and swing it back up into position, reload the box and go put Bactine on all the little cuts on your hands. Other: I don't know if the fan is supposed to be disabled when the slide control goes to 'off'. Mine isn't! If you want to disable the air conditioning compressor while the control is over to the right in 'defrost', the micro- switch for this can be removed or have a wire cut with the radio out. While you're fooling around in there, check any sponge seals to make sure they are where they are supposed to be and not leaking. Like the one from the plenum box to the dash vents. Anyway, hope this helps someone else. It is probably all in the real manual somewhere, but I usually don't buy the manuals until it is too late and some nasty problem has popped up. Then I can justify the $200 worth of manuals to the wife. >:-) Bill --------------------------------------------------------------------------- V. How do I hook up trailer lights? Date: Tue, 4 Jul 1995 16:10:02 -0700 From: gribble@PrimeNet.Com To: explorer Subject: Re: Ford Explorer List Digest V02 #159 Message-Id: <199507042310.QAA03731@mailhost.primenet.com> In previous issues there was some talk of trailer towing and hooking up the lights. From the comments about the difficulty of finding a connector for the Ford harness I wonder if a few people have not read their manual :-) If you ordered it with the trailer towing package there are two things you should be aware of: 1) The trailer towing package includes the special connector that fits the round plug that's dangling on the left under the rear bumper along with a wiring diagram that tells which color wired are for what. 2) The special connector that should be in the vehicle (that came with the trailer package) is specificly designed to activate the relays that are located in the back jack/rear window wash tank area behind the acess door. These relays ONLY come on when the special connector is plugged into the round plug. When it plugged in you can hear them click with the brakes and turn signals, with the connector out you don't hear them click. The purpose of the relays is to isolate the trailer electric draw from the rest of the lighting system. Federal law requires that if one of the regular turn lights burns out that the blinkers stop blinking. That makes it impossible to provide a heavy duty flasher for use with trailers direct from the factory. That's why the relays are in there. If you have the trailering package and don't use the special connecctor but let some shop (or do it yourself) just hook the trailer wiring into the regular wiring and install a heavy duty flasher you are wasting the clever setup Ford has provided. ***On the subject of towing with the factory hitch - I tow my 17' boat all the time with no problems. The factory hitch is very sturdy as far as I can see an is basically mounted to the frame. My Trailer/boat weights about 1750 pounds and has no brakes of it's own. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- VI. How does the liftgate activate the dome light? Date: 30 Jun 95 11:08:06 -0600 From: Bryan_Blanco-CBB020@email.mot.com To: explorer Subject: Re: Rear Hatch Switch Message-Id: <"Macintosh */PRMD=MOT/ADMD=MOT/C=US/"@MHS> To: explorer Subject: Rear Hatch Switch Message-Id: <9506291423.AA26902@mailgate.roche.com> >I have '93 XLT 4X4 and I would like to know if anyone knows where the dome >light switch is for the rear hatch. I have looked allover and cannot find it. >I think it must be under one of the hinges since I can't see anything that is >remotely close to being a switch. I would like to be able to shut off the >lights when I have the hatch open (i.e. tailgate party at the ballpark) since >I usually leave it open for a long time (>2 hrs). Anybody know where it is? There isn't a switch anywhere on the frame of the truck, it is inside of the latch on the liftgate itself. If you apply pressure to the latch on the liftgate so as to simulate the latch being closed around the pin on the truck frame. The light will go out. REMEMBER though, before closing the door you will nedd to release the door handle as if you were opening it. Because failure to release the latch could result in serious damage to the workings of the latch. This procedure is also very useful when hauling materials that extend out the back at night! bryan cbb020@email.mot.com --------------------------------------------------------------------------- VII. What is the proper tire pressure? Date: Thu, 13 Jul 95 09:13:14 PDT From: "Larry Brown" To: explorer Subject: Tire Pressure and MPG Message-Id: A lot of posts lately on Tire Pressure. Many saying 'who do I believe?' Tire pressure is a compromise. Lower pressure gives a smoother and and quieter ride. Higher pressure gives more precise steering and better mileage. Higher rear pressure than front pressure will bias the vehicle more towards understeer. (where the front of the vehicle slides out in a sharp turn before the rear) Higher front pressure than rear biases the vehicle more towards oversteer. (where the rear slides out first, leading into a spin) The original base tires on the Explorer are rather soft and squishy. It's a long story, but I only had them for 200 miles on my '92. Soon after, I had Yokohama Super Digger IV's. Since those are worn out, I have Michelin LTX AT, 6 ply, load range C. These tires are much more heavy-duty and have a 50 psi maximum pressure. I run my pressure at 40 psi front and rear for normal driving. I increase the rear to 45 psi when towing my boat. (3500 lb) That's to stiffen the tire and reduce any tendancy to sway. I would suggest that you experiment with your tire pressure. Use the door sticker as the low limit and the sidewall number as the high limit. Try different pressures and see what combination of ride and control makes you most comfortable. On the subject of Mileage, I get 14-15 around town, 19-20 on the highway, and 13 while towing. I've got an Automatic and a 3.73 ratio. Larry ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 11:50:15 -0700 From: gribble@PrimeNet.Com To: explorer Subject: Re: Ford Explorer List Digest V02 #168 Message-Id: <199507131850.LAA02266@mailhost.primenet.com> -------------- RE: Tire Pressure. I always use 32 PSI. The recommendation for 26 on the door might be enough to carry the "normal" load but it's mainly to provide a softer ride, not to maximize tire life or gas mileage. The tires are built to carry a certain load at a certain psi. If you are carrying less load you can inflate them to less. If the tires are much bigger then they need to be, as far as load carrying capacity, too much air can make them run mainly on the tread in the center instead of spreading the load over the whole witdth of the tire. If you want to get the best tire life and mpg you should run them at the highest pressure that results in even tire wear. Also, too much pressure can reduce braking effectiveness. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- VIII. What computer chip upgrades are available? Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 11:50:15 -0700 From: gribble@PrimeNet.Com To: explorer Subject: Re: Ford Explorer List Digest V02 #168 Message-Id: <199507131850.LAA02266@mailhost.primenet.com> Question: Has anyone installed a JET brand computer chip? I saw an ad for a chip from them that installs along with the factory chip in the engine computer and adds 15 ft-lbs of torque at 1500 rpm. Cost is around $300. It would be nice to hear from someone whose tried one before spending that much money. Sounds a lot easier then changing the exhaust manifold and the rest of the exhuast system in order to get a boost in power. Particularly if it gives the boost at low engine speeds since that's where most of the driving is done. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- IX. What causes my transmission to ping? Date: Thu, 20 Jul 1995 09:46:07 +22305931 (EDT) From: jpb@beluga.must.com (Joe Balenzano) To: explorer Subject: ping noise when taking off. Message-Id: <9507201346.AA15679@beluga.must.com> 1992 Sport 2 Door 4X4 40K miles. Recently I started hearing a pinging noise when I engaged the clutch when taking off from a dead stop. I though that this was cheap gas, so I started using 93 Octane. The ping still persisted. Curious, I began to notice that the ping did not sound like it was coming from the engine but somewhere around the transmission area. Sooooooo...... I got on the the http://www.alldata.tsb.com/ web site, got a listing of all TSB for the Explorer, and sure enough my problem was listed. I then down loaded the free 10 min trial software from alldata, to view the TSB. The problem was the yoke nut that holds the yoke to the output shaft of the transfer case needs to be tighten to a new torque specification. If this procedure does not work I believe the TSB said the yoke or the outputshat of the transfer case should be replaced. The book time to re-torque this bolt is .9 hours (no parts). The mechanic at the Ford Dealership wrote on the worksheet, that he re-torqued the bolt to new specification, but that the problem was still there. His recommendation was don't bother with the other procedure since its $175 in parts, and about 4 hours labor. Well I was kind of upset, becuase I just paid $57 and the fix did not work, or at least that's what he said. It DID WORK !. My guess if the bozo never test drove the vehicle after he re-torqued the bolt and assumed that the problem was still there because maybe there still was some play at the yoke. The TSB clearly states, "RE TEST DRIVE THE VEHICLE TO SEE IF THE PROBLEM STILL EXSIST". This pinging noise, is also present on automatic equipped vehicles. -- Joe Balenzano jpb@dart.thomsoft.com (203)845-5000 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- X. Where can I get the rear cargo storage box? Date: Wed, 19 Jul 95 14:05:00 PDT From: "Ronchetti, Keith" To: explorer Subject: Me and My Explorer at 36,000:bushings,boxes,brakes Message-ID: <300D759E@sansmtpgw.sandiegoca.attgis.com> I am looking for the rear cargo storage box in beige and possibly the center console storage box as well. I just received catalogs from John Baker, Performance Products, and JC Whitney to do some price comparison. Here is what I see: JB PP JCW Center Console 59.50 64.80 None Rear Cargo Box 65.75 59.50 59.50 Shipping 9.95 17.00 13.00 NOTE: Center Consoles are different in design between JB and PP. PP's looks nicer but I am not sure of the actual size. JB's is L18"xW8.25"xH9" and is padded on part of the top. JCW's rear cargo box is different from JB or PP. It is hard to determine from pictures just how different but I can tell that PP's rear box has the lock on the cargo area side and the hinge on the back side of the box against the wheel well. I consider this configuration a normal setup. It measures L23"xW6.5"xH11" according the a phone rep. JB's rear box measures L24.5"xW6.5"xH13.5" with the lock on top and the hinge on the cargo side of the box. This sounds like the top would get in the way when opened. JCW's box is black polyethylene and measures L23"xW8.5"x~14.25". JB's and PP's boxes are vinyl outside with a map pocket and color matched. Does anyone have one of these rear cargo boxes? Where did you get it? How much? How did it install? Does it give you that much more storage space without subtracting from the general space in the cargo area. I want to store a blanket, binoculars, small tool box, two Eddie Bauer coffee cups that fit the cup holders, a quart of oil, and miscellaneous items that one should keep with a vehicle. I'm going to have my transmission fluid replaced soon. I usually have each of my vehicles done every 50K (87 T-Bird, 82 Nissan Pickup) anyway and since there may be a problem I will do it now. Approximately $48 which includes a new filter and pan gasket. I enjoy this forum and have no particular opinion on newsgroup vs. mailing list. ---------------------------------------------------------- Keith Ronchetti 36,365 miles and still loving it! ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 06:51:51 -0800 (PDT) From: Jack Dauler To: explorer Subject: Storage Box Message-Id: <199508311351.AA246197112@tsnake2.sr.hp.com> Someone was asking about Explorer storage boxes: John Baker Company, Webster, Wi 54893-0329 has a Explorer accessories brochure which shows a rear storage box for $66 (four door model only). 1-715-866-8111 I call about this box but did not like the material it was made of, i think it was cardboard! Anyway i bought a SportMate box Model #254000 for around $42. It fits over the right rearwell and uses two screws for holding. Made from hard black plastic it holds a lot, has a key lock, and you can roll the cloth storeage protecter over it, which is neat! Box is made by Delta Co. Hope this help. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 12:52:20 -0700 From: gribble@primenet.com To: explorer Subject: Storage box Message-Id: <199508311952.MAA24563@mailhost.primenet.com> > >Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 23:17:29 -0400 >From: MrKennyG@aol.com >To: explorer >Subject: Storage Boxes >Message-ID: <950828231727_85816779@mail02.mail.aol.com> > >In the latest issue of the Performance catalog, I saw a product that was >essentially a storage box, which fit in the cargo bay of the Explorer, on the >side and over one of the wheel wells. > >Does anyone have one of these installed? My specific questions are > >1) How big are they? Do they generally take a lot of space up in the cargo >bay? I bought mine from JC Whitney. It was about $70. Fits over and behind the passenger side rear wheel hump and is just a bit wider then the hump. It attaches with sheet metal type screws into the plastic that the inside of the back is made out of. Obviously you need to drill a few small holes in the plastic but nothing major that would look all that terrible if you took it out later. It covers up the tiny little cubby that's there now although it does have an opening inside itself to give access to the cubby. The brand name on it is LIDO. Comes in any color you want as long as it's Black. It's a godsend. Jim --------------------------------------------------------------------------- XI. What are some sources for Explorer accessories? Date: Sun, 23 Jul 95 23:09:51 EDT From: BARRY NESTOR: E-CONNECTION ADMIN/TECH SUPPORT To: explorer Cc: nestor@mkots4.enet.dec.com Subject: RE: Ford Explorer List Digest V02 #179 Message-Id: <9507240306.AA18577@us2rmc.zko.dec.com> The number for John Baker is 800-843-0185. The grill inserts will cost you 59.50 plus 5.95 for shipping. I got mine from a local discount auto parts place for almost half that last summer. Barry Nestor Digital Equipment Merrimack, NH. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- XII. How do I hook up an aftermarket cd player? Date: Mon, 24 Jul 95 13:57:36 EST From: Ybanez Sheldon To: explorer Cc: jacob.suter@sbaonline.gov Subject: Re: Ford Explorer List Digest V Message-Id: <60ECDA380105AED1@mhsgate.salem.ge.com> ---snip--- Also, I want to add either a 6/10 disk changer (that will not end up being Ford). I know there is a "CD MODE" on the highpower reciever, where it pulls a line level signal from the CD player. There is an external "switch" that turns on the CD mode... Where do these hook in? Also, does anyone know what "level" the audio is coming out of socket B (the speaker level or "line" level?) These have to be the outputs... Thanks, Jake --unsnip-- Jake (et al), after extensive modifications inorder to get an aftermarket Disc changer, amplifiers, cross-overs, speakers installed, I maybe able to answer your questions. The amplifier is located in the kick panel of the passenger side... that's at least where mine was ('94 Sport)... the output from the reciever/deck itself is some strange concoction (sp?) from the folks at FORD... its not really line level and its not really speaker level... its somewhere in between... too high for line level and too low for speaker level... that's why it goes to an external amp. If you want to add a seperate amp you'll need a line level adapter from the various after market sources (Crutchfield has one and Alpine makes one)... Alpine makes an adapter that should allow you to connect one of their 6-disc changers directly to the back of your reciever allowing use of the CD MODE (I think once the correct plug is inserted in the appropriate terminal then the CD MODE is enabled - either your terminals 'A or C'), but I'm not too familiar with that option... ask your local ALPINE REP. I am familiar, however, with the FM modulator add-on changers.. that work excellent... and you end up with a IR remote to control the Changer functions (from ALPINE)... --- --- Sheldon Ybanez [ybanez-s@salem.ge.com] GE Drive Systems Salem, VA Always "Remember. No matter where you go, there you are." 88 --- --- --------------------------------------------------------------------------- XIII. How do I replace the radius arm bushings? Date: Tue, 25 Jul 1995 18:24:38 -0500 From: Gale Turner To: explorer Subject: Radius Arm Bushings - Fix'em yourself! Message-Id: <199507252324.SAA14552@borg.asic.sc.ti.com> As some of you may recall, I had a rather unsatisfactory incident with the Ford dealer in my area regarding the Radius Arm bushings on my 91 XLT. The bushings wore out (after being replaced once before) prior to the recall letter & new style bushings currently being offered. I took my Explorer to the dealer - with recall letter in hand, to have the car fixed. After two days, the dealer returned the vehicle and stated that the bushings had been replaced before with the new style, and refused to either fix the bushings or refund my $$$ (A/C service done at same time). Hmmmphff! Anyway, I purchased new redesigned, lifetime warrentee bushings from NAPA for about $35 for both sides. I spent about 90 minutes replacing the bushing on the passenger side, and about 45 minutes for the driver side. NO BIG DEAL. Folks, this was pretty easy to do. Save yourself the aggrivation, days of delay, and about $200 and do it yourself! I'm neither a professional auto mechanic, nor do I have an ultimate set of tools. The only "special" tool I used was my trusty torque wrench. The interesting outcome of this, is that I inspected the old bushings and sure enough, the dealer had replaced the bushings previously with the same shitty rubber ones as from the factory. Here are the steps I used to replace the bushings on my 2WD XLT: 1) Raise vehicle and support with jack stands on frame rails. 2) Remove tires. 3) Remove lower shock bolt so that the shock swings free. 4) Remove the upper anti sway bar bolt so that the bar is no longer attached to the control arm. 5) With the control arm dangling free, carefully remove the coil spring retaining nut (large about 1-1/8"). Make sure that no tension is on the spring. Swing the spring up and remove. Support the Radius Arm with a block of wood or hydralic jack so that it's weight will not be held by the brake line. 6) Remove the Radius Arm to Frame bolt (large about 1-1/8"). The outer portion of the bushing can come off now. 7) Remove the I-beam to frame pivot bolt (the small end of the I-beam). Lower the small/loose end of the I-beam gently to the ground. 8) Carefully slide the entire axle/I-beam/Radius Arm assembly forward until the Radius Arm completely slides out of the frame attachement point. Again, make sure you support the assembly so that no undo pressure is placed on the brake line. 9) Remove the inner Radius Arm bushings. 10) Reverse the process, making sure to correctly assemble the bushings and torquing ALL of the bolts to the recommended specs. The only area I had problems with was the passenger side I-beam hitting the driver's side I-beam when sliding the assembly forward. This forced me to do step 7. I would imagine the 4WD Explorers would have some more complications with the drive shafts. Anyone care to comment? GT --------------------------------------------------------------------------- XIV. How often should I change my oil? Date: Thu, 3 Aug 1995 14:15:06 -0400 From: BrentB108@aol.com To: explorer Subject: RE: Synthetic Oil Message-Id: <950803140747_129652360@aol.com> > From: "Olson, Dave" > I am using Mobil 1 oil in my 95 XLT. I was told by a friend who has used > it for many years that he changes the oil every 10,000 miles but changes > the filter every 5,000, adding a quart at that time. Is this a reasonable > procedure? I don't haul a trailer and most of my driving is "suburban" > with a mixture of city traffic and interstate. My father was an additive specialist for Central Petroleum Company in Walcott, Iowa ( They make custom blended oils for the trucking and farming industries and for many other small industries as well ). He and all of the other Chemical engineers that I have talked with about motor oils all recommended that standard oil be changed every 3000 miles and synthetic oils changed at 5000-7500 miles for the best possible engine protection. Because of the smaller engines we live with now days, the engines rev higher and run hotter, which causes the oil and its additives to get contaminated faster ( from their contact with exhaust gases and combustion residues left from fuel additives being burned ) and break down sooner than they used to years ago. The big advantage to synthetic oil is that since the base oil is synthetic, it will not breakdown as fast as normal oil and its viscosity is much more stable under extreme temperature conditions. If you take a 5W-30W synthetic and normal oil, the synthetic will not thicken up as much as the normal oil on a cold -5 degree morning and will not thin out as much when you are towing a trailer in the middle of the summer under high heat conditions. Both standard and synthetic oils get contaminated at about the same rates. The contaminates, which usually through chemical reactions with the oil and its additives become acidic, and are potentially more damaging to the internal parts of a modern engine ( bacause the 'high-tech' metal alloys that are being used are pitted and corroded easier ) than oil that has broken down ( lost its ability to change to a higher viscosity when it heats up ). The life of the synthetic oil is longer because of the fact that it doesn't break down as fast, but it still gets contaminated like normal oil. Just changing the filter in between full oil changes leaves 4 quarts of dirty oil in the engine which immediately contaminates the new quart you just put in. As long as you don't go too long between full oil changes you really shouldn't need to be changing the filter in between because it probably won't be too dirty ( if it is getting that dirty you should probably be changing all of the oil anyway ). The oil change intervals given above are the recommendations that Central Petroleum gives to their customers ( which are probably a little low since of course they are going to be able to sell you more oil the more you change it ), but the testing they and many independent engine manufacturers that they sell oil to have done seem to indicate that going longer than these intervals tends to cause an engine to show more wear after 70,000 miles than if the intervals are followed. Many engineers also indicate that they do not see much of an advantage using synthetic oil over normal oil if you are not exposing an engine to high stress or extreme temperature conditions, the anti-friction additives used in normal oil provide as much engine protection ( and are almost the same as used in synthetic ) as using a full synthetic oil under normal driving conditions ( and is much cheaper as well ). ** I am not employed by nor am I a representative of Central Petroleum ** Company. The views written here are my own taken from conversations ** I have had with employees at their company, but they are not official ** statements from company and they can not be responsable for any ** personal injury or property damage that occurs from anything I have ** included here. - I had to include that :-) BrentB108@aol.com 1991 XLT 4DR 4X4 Explorer 1995 XLT 4DR 4X4 Explorer --------------------------------------------------------------------------- XV. How can I upgrade my Explorer’s performance? Date: Sun, 27 Aug 95 22:39:43 -0700 From: mikey@slic.cts.com (Mike Shirley) To: explorer Subject: Re: Performance upgrades for Explorer Message-ID: As list posts are rather slow currently, I thought I'd poach a few articles from rec.autos.4x4. I will be doing this from time to time depending on the traffic in the list and/or the quality of the poached material. REMEMBER: Your mileage may vary (IE: Buyer Beware!!!) ...Mike From: Dennis Noes Newsgroups: rec.autos.4x4 Subject: Re: Performance upgrades for Explorer Date: 24 Aug 1995 11:23:16 GMT Lines: 50 David, You can boost your horsepower without spending big $$$$$. You're starting off right by going with a K&N filter (everyone has their opnions on K&N, and there was a large pro/con thread awhile back, but I'm happy with mine and noticed an power improvement) and the synthetic oil. The way to get horsepower is get the engine to BREATHE at it's maximum peak. To help your engine breath right, includes Air Filter, Manifold, and exhaust. Air Filter - K&N (you did it) roughly $35.00 Headers - When my manifolds cracked on my Ford Bronco, I replaced them with Calf. Smog Legal EO(Executive Order) Edelbrock Headers. roughly $295.00 price included installation. Exhaust - Replace the stock exhaust with either a Borla or Flowmaster catback exhaust system. I went for the Flowmaster which cost me roughtly $145.00 price included installation and they welded the pipes, didn't use clamps or shim inserts. welding is recommended for 4x4. Just performing these three (3) upgrades, so your engine can breathe will greatly improve your performance and horsepower. Now $475.00 is alot more economical on the wallet. Down the road, I would replace the stock sparkplug wires with some high performance wires. I went with the Accell High performance, because they can handle the high temp of the headers. My Jacob wires couldn't handle the heat and kept melting. Check the back issues of the 4-Wheeler and Petersons from the past year, one of those two had a good article on how to increase horsepower and the application of the above was highly recommended by both articles. Can't remember which issues off the top of my head(I subscribe to 5 diff 4x4 mags).Good luck with your choice and let the other 4x4 netters know the performance results of your choice. OBTW: I went with Flowmaster, becuase 1) A heck of a lot cheaper in price then BORLA and a lot quieter. Good Luck and Happy Trails Dennis 4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4X4 Dennis Noes, 89 Ford Bronco XLT Atlanta, Georgia, USA UNFWDA-SFWDA Four Wheel Drive Education Awareness Rep. Member of United FWD Assoc., Southern 4WD Assoc., Tread Lightly and Georgia Bounty Runners 4WD Club Work E-Mail - dennis_noes@hpatc.desk.hp.com Home E-Mail - drnoes@aol.com 4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4x4 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Aug 1995 16:59:28 GMT From: gpritcha@vanieee.wimsey.bc.ca (Gordon Pritchard) Subject: Re: Performance upgrades for Explorer "David A. Gallagher" wrote: > I just bought a Ford Explorer 4x4 and still am very pleased with > it. However, the one area that really bugs me is the lack of > horsepower <> > At a minimum I will do a K&N Filtercharger plus synthetic oil. There have been a number of people, on Usenet, in various mailing lists, and in printed publications, who have used oil analysis to arrive at conclusions regarding K&N filters: The summary is that all analyses showed sharply... ..it was determined that the K&N filters were permitting more dust through to the engine.... ..Interestingly, I haven't seen any _documented_ followup showing that shortened engine life _has_ resulted. FWIW. Check around, though, and then do whatever you are comfortable with to your new Explorer. It _is_ a cheap and easy way to get to know your new vehicle. Gordon Pritchard, VE7AGW *********************************************************************** * My opinions only. * * E-mail: gpritcha@vanieee.wimsey.bc.ca * * 1954 Chev 1/2 ton (perpetual project) * * -small-block, posi, frame stretch...* *********************************************************************** --------------------------------------------------------------------------- XVI. How can I fix scratches in my clearcoat? Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 07:12:23 -0800 (PDT) From: Jack Dauler To: explorer Subject: Scratches in clearcoat Message-Id: <199508291412.AA111465544@tsnake2.sr.hp.com> On or about 9 Aug there was a posting Re: scratches in clearcoat. I had many scratches because of trying to remove road tar from my 91 XLT. I used a pad that was to abrasive and payed the price. By useing a 3M product called Finesse-it II Finishing Material and a buffing wheeel attached to a elec. hand drill, i was able to remove most of the scratches. Then by useing 3M's Imperial Glaze to remove the swirl marks, my Explorer is back to where i want it. Hope this helps! ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 13:29:44 EDT From: "W.J. Brinkman" To: explorer Subject: Tar - Clearcoat scratches.... Message-Id: I had the misfortune of driving over wet tar while a highway was being repaved. There was a car in front and back of me. Needless to say, I had tar all over my 6 week old Explorer. It was on the windows, hood, roof....all over. I was heartbroken thinking about how/if I would get all the tar off. My husband (Who used to work in a carwash) said to use kerosene. Well, I didn't like the idea. I made him do it first. It worked like a charm !! I used about a pint and the truck looks great !! There was no scratching, dulling of the clearcoat. I did have to wash/ kerosene/wash but it was worth the extra work. This was over 6 weeks ago and there is no harm done !! Now, I still love my Explorer !! :-) Wendy 95 Explorer (In Mocha Frost) --------------------------------------------------------------------------- XVII. Where can I get an add-on rear seat? Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 12:14:37 -0700 From: Dave Brower To: explorer Subject: Info on cargo-compartment seats wanted Message-Id: <199508291914.MAA10364@ccnet3.ccnet.com> We just added a 4th child, which makes the explorer too small for the whole family to fit into. I'm looking for information and experience anyone might have with add-on rear seats for Explorers. I'm aware that J.A.T enterprises in Florida sells one that bolts into the cargo compartment, with belts and shoulder harnesses that use the existing rear seat-blet mounting bolts. I'd like to hear from anyone who * knows of another supplier; * has installed and used these things; * has information or opinions about their safety. The JAT seat is $700 in vinyl, $800 in cloth and $900 in leather. I thought I'd heard of/seen another one that was like $500 or $600. Either of these sounds like a reasonable option compared to trading to a Mini-van. thanks, -dB ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 30 Aug 1995 10:25:13 +700 From: "Brad Armstrong" To: explorer Subject: Re: Third seat in Explorer Message-Id: <69E5B5D135A@park.admin.utah.edu> > > Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 12:14:37 -0700 > From: Dave Brower > To: explorer > Subject: Info on cargo-compartment seats wanted > Message-Id: <199508291914.MAA10364@ccnet3.ccnet.com> > > We just added a 4th child, which makes the explorer too small for the > whole family to fit into. > > I'm looking for information and experience anyone might have with > add-on rear seats for Explorers. I'm aware that J.A.T enterprises in > Florida sells one that bolts into the cargo compartment, with belts > and shoulder harnesses that use the existing rear seat-blet mounting > bolts. > > I'd like to hear from anyone who > > * knows of another supplier; > * has installed and used these things; > * has information or opinions about their safety. > > The JAT seat is $700 in vinyl, $800 in cloth and $900 in leather. I > thought I'd heard of/seen another one that was like $500 or $600. > Either of these sounds like a reasonable option compared to trading to > a Mini-van. > I have a neighbor who installed a mail-order 3rd seat that cost him about $800, plus he had to install it himself. The seat is rear facing and has lap belts. I have seen third seats in this area (Salt Lake City) that are made by local upholstry shops. The seats can be mounted in a rear-facing or forward-facing mode with quick-release bolts. The shop also can match most OEM fabrics as well. Cost installed: $450 I am considering buying a seat that is forward facing, I've seen one installed and it looks good and has some storage space behind it (and it sure beats having a minivan). Consider calling various auto upholstry shops in your area to find a local manufacturer, you'll probably get a better deal. Brad ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 30 Aug 1995 20:12:24 -0400 From: FBCoop@aol.com To: explorer Subject: Re: Rear Cargo Compartment Seats Message-ID: <950830201223_87464599@mail04.mail.aol.com> I have installed a rear or third seat from Little People seats. They were very helpful and it took me about 2 hours to do the installation. It only has lap belts but my kids love it. It can be installed either facing front or back and once it is installed it can be removed by taking out 4 bolts. It is the same seat as in the John Baker or one of those catalogs. I have the leather interior but got the vinyl seat and you can't tell the difference. Cost was about $580 with the third seatbelt. The phone number for Little People Seats is: 209-544-6826 I like mine very much and if you call them they will send you the results of all the safety testing etc. Good Luck Foster Cooper ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 08:38:34 -0400 From: emorales@omni.voicenet.com (Edrick Morales) To: explorer Subject: Re: Ford Explorer List Digest V02 #219 Message-Id: Third seat in Explorer ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ >> I'm looking for information and experience anyone might have with >> add-on rear seats for Explorers. I'm aware that J.A.T enterprises in >> Florida sells one that bolts into the cargo compartment, with belts >> and shoulder harnesses that use the existing rear seat-blet mounting >> bolts. >> >> I'd like to hear from anyone who >> >> * knows of another supplier; John Baker from Webster WI offers a third seat for anyone under 5'7". The seat matches the Explorer interior, according to John Baker's catalog, and meets federal safety specifications. Available in cloth or vinyl with two lap belts. Price is $495.00. Phone numbers are: 715 866 8111 800 843 0185, Ordering 715 866 4210, FAX orders --------------------------------------------------------------------------- XVIII. What makes my stick shift grind? Date: Tue, 29 Aug 1995 21:22:16 -0700 (PDT) From: David Paik To: explorer Subject: Grinding gears Message-Id: <199508300422.VAA11564@elaine24.Stanford.EDU> Just wondering if anyone else out there has noticed these problems: I've got a stick shift '95 XLT and every once in a while, when I put it in reverse with the clutch all the way in (yes, I'm very sure its all the way in) it will grind the transmission and I have to put it in neutral and try again once or twice till it goes in smoothly. Seems to only happen when first putting it in gear after starting the car. Any one have any guesses or anything? I've also noticed that metallic ping when I put it in first that there is a TSB out for. My local Ford service rep is looking into it now. He says he's just waiting for parts. Also, the stud that the lug nut goes on seems to have had a burr from the factory. I watched the guy take off the lug nut and it was stuck from the start. They're doing this under warrentee but I was wondering if anyone else has had this happen? OK, one last thing. When I first got my Explorer, it leaned pretty bad to the left side on level ground. They adjusted the sway bars to level it out. Anyone had this one? Well, despite all this trouble, I'm pretty happy with the Explorer. I took it on a 3000 mile trip through Yosemite, Death Valley, Zion, Bryce, Arches, Colorado Nat'l Monument, Rocky Mtn. NP, Dinosaur NP and various other places. The highway miles were really enjoyable and the offroading was a blast. I chickened out on this one part where this big rock had obviously chewed up many other trucks and there was no way around. Anyone have any good sources to learn 4WD driving? -- David Paik | "Time flies like an arrow, termite@leland.stanford.edu | Fruit flies like a banana" ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 30 Aug 95 09:45:16 PDT From: "Larry Brown" To: explorer Cc: termite@leland.stanford.edu Subject: Grinding gears Message-Id: Dave Paik writes: >I've got a stick shift '95 XLT and every once in a while, when I put it >in reverse with the clutch all the way in (yes, I'm very sure its all >the way in) it will grind the transmission and I have to put it in neutral >and try again once or twice till it goes in smoothly. Seems to only happen >when first putting it in gear after starting the car. Any one have any >guesses or anything? Dave: I don't have a stick in my Explorer, but this sounds like the way our Jetta behaves. In most manual transmissions, there is no synchro for reverse gear. That's the device that matches the speeds inside the transmission. Say you start the Explorer in Neutral, with the clutch out. The input shaft spins with the motor. Then you press in the clutch, but th shaft still spins. It will grind when you try to go to reverse. An easy way to get around this is to move the shifter into 1st before you move it into reverse. This will cause the synchro to stop the input shaft from spinning, allowing a smooth shift into reverse. Larry --------------------------------------------------------------------------- XIX. How can I add the DRL (daytime running lights) module? Date: Fri, 27 Oct 1995 11:34:44 -0400 From: RJJaap@aol.com To: explorer cc: dave@iguanabbs.com Subject: Re: DRLs Message-ID: <951027113443_55962142@mail04.mail.aol.com> Dave, I have a schematic which shows a shorting connector (Daytime Running Lamps Module Shorting Connector, C170) in place of the the Daytime Running Lamps Module, also C170). On the schematic, it looks like the shorting connector would be a direct replacement for the DRL module. I believe the connector (C170) is located directly behind the driver's side headlight on the crossbrace (rear side) which the radiator is mounted on. I called the local dealer's parts department to see if I could purchase the DRL module, but he could not find a part number for the module. His microfish did not refer to the DRL module. I then Emailed Ford, asking them about the module. Their only response was, "We don't recommend that our customers alter their vehicles." This is as far as I have pursued this subject. If you get any further than me, Email me what you find out. Thanks, Bob ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 28 Oct 1995 11:24:52 -0700 (PDT) From: rah@netcom.com (Richard Hyde) To: explorer Subject: Daytime Running Lights - Solved! Message-Id: <199510281824.LAA29323@netcom11.netcom.com> I've been reading the DRL thread with some interest. My wife and I just returned from a vacation in Canada where *everyone* runs with their headlights on during the day - DRL installed or not. It is not the law there, the Canadians just decided it was a Good Idea (TM). I thought so too, until I lost a low beam bulb and had to replace it for $15.00 or so... :-) I called my local Ford parts department this morning and found they had a DRL module in stock ( part# F43Z-15A272-A $51.98 ). I bought the module, plugged it in to the existing harness connection on my '92 EB - Voila! DRL! There is no existing mount for the new module, so I'll either bolt it on through an existing hole in the sheet metal, or drill a couple of holes for a "proper" mount. Cheers, Rick ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 30 Oct 1995 08:17:13 -0800 (PST) From: rah@netcom.com (Richard Hyde) To: explorer Subject: Re: Re: DRL solved... Message-Id: <199510301617.IAA15549@netcom11.netcom.com> Dave, > Excellent information, thanks for the part number! You're welcome! :-) > Can you just confirm what Bob (RJJaap) said: that the module plugs in behind > the RF headlight? Thanks. As you sit in the drivers seat, the module is on the front left side of the vehicle. If you draw an extended line from the left rear of the washer/radiator container through the right front of the container, you will just about hit the module. If DRL is not installed, the shorting bar you mentioned earlier IS installed. You must have either the DRL module or the shorting bar installed in order for the headlights to work. > By the way, for the conference, my 92 Explorer owner's manual says that the > DRLs are the high beam lamps at a lower intensity. Interesting. Yep, by burning the high beam at reduced intensity instead of using the low beam filaments, you don't decrease the useful life of the headlight bulb. That is the reason I opted to spend the money for the DRL module. I figure it will save me $ over the life of the car. Cheers, Rick ------------------------------ Date: 31 Oct 1995 02:39:56 GMT From: Dave_Schultheis@iguanabbs.com (Dave Schultheis) To: explorer Subject: daytime running lights, cont'd Message-Id: <967221023.24333583@iguanabbs.com> In the continuing saga of the DRL module, I erroneously word-processed: > > Can you just confirm what Bob (RJJaap) said: that the module plugs > > in behind the RF headlight? Thanks. ( issue 276 ) My apologies to Bob for misquoting him. I've since exchanged messages with Rick and corrected myself: the module plugs into my 92 Explorer right behind and slightly above the LF headlight. The existing harness has a female receptable attached to a cross-rail with a male plug in it. If you remove the plug and replace it with the DRL module, the high-beam headlights come on (at lower intensity) when the engine is running and the emergency brake is "off" according to the owner's manual. Thanks to Rich Hyde providing the part number, I called several Ford dealers in the local area and came up with prices of between $44 and $50. None had any in stock but could order it. I think this pretty well puts this situation to rest. Until I actually get one plugged in and working, I promise to stop talking about it. Thanks to Rick and Bob for their help. Dave Internet: dave_schultheis@iguanabbs.com [or] wb6khp@wvara.org Amateur Radio: WB6KHP @ N0ARY.#NOCAL.CA.USA.NOAM U.S. Mail: P.O. Box 6592, San Jose, CA 95150 USA --- Please turn FROM the left lane INTO the left lane. ------------------------------ Date: 11 Dec 1995 01:56:17 GMT From: Dave_Schultheis@iguanabbs.com (Dave Schultheis) To: explorer Subject: daytime running lights Message-Id: <967245790.170719@iguanabbs.com> In the last chapter of our story, I had ordered a DRL module from my local Ford dealer's parts department. Part number: F43Z-15A272-A (although the box is labeled slightly differently). Through a series of employee screw-ups at the parts department, nobody called me when the part was "in," and then I was poorly treated when I innocently inquired about it, but that is another story for another day. Suffice to say I made enough "noise" that I am treated much better at Capitol Ford (San Jose). I now have a 10% off certificate for future parts needs and they've actually given me some small parts "gratis" with a cheerful (?) "Merry Christmas." The DRL module (again, $53.34 including tax) plugs into a receptacle in the wiring harness behind the left front headlight. The module consists of some circuitry enclosed in a metal box with fins ("heat-sink") to dissipate the small amount (?) of heat generated when the unit is operated. I used a nut and bolt in one of the four holes on the heat-sink to mount the module in a conveniently-located existing hole on a cross-member. Operationally, the DRL is straightforward. With the key "on"/engine running, and the "emergency" brake released, the high-beam portion of the headlights come on with reduced intensity. You can still "flash" the high beams (if needed) by pulling back on the turn-signal lever and they will get brighter. If you pull the headlight switch to the "parking" position, the parking and tail lights come on in addition to the running lights. If you pull the headlight switch all the way "on," the regular headlights (low beams) come "on" and the high beams go "off." Switching to "high beams" works normally, by pushing the turn-signal lever towards the dashboard. Unfortunately, there is no convenient way to "dim" your headlights. My mother lives in a secured complex with a sign posted "parking lights only," so as not to blind the security officers, but I simply cannot have "parking lights only." On the other hand, the "running lights" are not at full brightness so they shouldn't blind anybody. If this was a serious problem (it isn't yet), I would have to unplug the module. If I were addressing Ford engineers, I would request one additional switch to "enable" or "disable" daytime running lights. On the bright side (pun intentional), I have not been involved in a traffic accident since installation of the daytime running light module! I hope I've answered any questions that may have come to the minds of casual readers. Sorry if I have given more information than anybody really needs. If anybody has any questions, please send them to one of the e-mail addresses below. Thanks to Richard Hyde, Ed J. and Keith Robinson for their help on this project. Dave in San Jose dave_schultheis@iguanabbs.com >> or >> wb6khp@wvara.org Amateur radio: WB6KHP @ N0ARY.#NOCAL.CA.USA.NOAM Dave Schultheis, P.O. Box 6592, San Jose, CA 95150 --- Please turn FROM the left lane INTO the left lane. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- XX. How can I find out about the hatchback recall? Date: Mon, 30 Oct 1995 16:15:40 -0500 From: "Wayne L. Phares" To: explorer Cc: "'Wayne @ Internext'" Subject: The D.O.T.'s description of the lastest Exploer recall Message-ID: <01BAA6E3.15AF31A0@waynepc.internext.com> I have seen several people asking about this recall, here is what the Department of Transportaion has to say about it: Ford Motor Company Model: Ford Explorer Years: 1992 - 1993 Manufactured Dates: January 1992-March 1993 Number of Vehicles: 364,784 Recall Number: 95V164001 System: Hatchback hydraulic cylinder. Vehicle Description: Multi-purpose passenger vehicles. Description of Defect: The hydraulic lift cylinders are attached to brackets that are welded to the liftgate. The bracket welds can fracture. Consequence of Defect: With a broken bracket weld, there is a potential for the liftgate bracket to gradually bend inward allowing the lift cylinder ball stud to disengage. Corrective Action: Dealers will install reinforcement brackets. Note: Owners who take their vehicles to an authorized dealer on an agreed upon service date and do not receive the free remedy within a reasonable time, should contact Ford at 1-800-392-3673 You can find them @ http://www.dot.gov/affairs/nhtsain.htm If I find more recalls from them I will post them. Wayne L. Phares phares01@internext.com The proud owner of a 1996 XLT 4x4 954A --------------------------------------------------------------------------- XXI. How can I fix a broken armrest? Date: Thu, 2 Nov 1995 08:58:11 -0800 (PST) From: rah@netcom.com (Richard Hyde) To: explorer Subject: Armrest hinge removal?? Message-Id: <199511021658.IAA29343@netcom3.netcom.com> I have in front of me, a broken '92 Explorer armrest (not mine!). The plastic support structure has sheared off right at the level of the bottom of the armrest. The hinge structure appears to rotate on a 1/4 inch metal rod that extends through the plastic support and into either side of the armrest itself. There are two plastic spacers that appear to be designed to center the armrest on the hinge assembly. I recall reading an earlier thread that mentioned that a replacement metal hinge assembly was available from Mazda. However, I cannot quite see how one goes about removing the old hinge assemble from the armrest. It might be a press fit, but I've exerted "reasonable" force on the assembly in an attempt to remove it - no luck. Can anyone tell me the best way to remove the old hinge assembly from within the armrest? Thanks! Rick ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 5 Nov 1995 07:27:14 -0800 (PST) From: rah@netcom.com (Richard Hyde) To: explorer Subject: Re: Armrest hinge & driver's side mirror Message-Id: <199511051527.HAA15326@netcom14.netcom.com> Thanks to a message from Jack Dauler, I discovered that the proper way to remove the hinge assembly from within the armrest was to *destroy* it! Ford recommends using a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel to cut the metal hinge rod in two places. I used a metal cutting blade in a jig saw and had the hinge removed in just a few seconds. When the owner orders the new hinge assembly, I'll let you know how it installs. On a slightly sadder note... For the first time ever, I decided to take my beloved Explorer through one of those gas station car washes. The car was filthy from last nights rain and I had this free coupon, you see... So I full into the wash bay, and the thing starts it's cycle. Within seconds, this big metal arm comes down and rips off the drivers side rearview mirror as if the sheet aluminum was paper! I immediately drive out without waiting for the thing to finish it's evil work. $150 and an hour or so later, I had a new mirror bolted on and everything looks as good as new. Looks like the Explorer gets hand washed for the rest of it's life! just a cautionary tale... Rick --------------------------------------------------------------------------- XXII. How can I get 4WD to disengage? Date: Wed, 13 Dec 95 09:51:03 EST From: amante@aluxpo.att.com (Walter Amante) To: explorer Subject: 4WD NOT DISENGAGING Message-Id: <9512131451.AA10076@alux3.cnet.att.com> From: "Ingoglia, Ralph BB" : > > Hi folks, > > in the last couple of days (very cold days) our Explorer has not wanted to > disengage from 4WD. The light on the dashboard button is not on and the 4WD > light close to the tach. is not on, however the vehicle is in 4WD. When we > push the 4WD button, nothing happens. Has anyone experienced the same or a > similar problem? Any clue to how to fix? I located the fuse box and > checked the 20 Amp fuse, it seems to be ok. > > Cheers, > > Ralph > 1992 XLT Burgundy, 5sp, 50K I couple of things come to mind... 1) Are you remembering to back up about 20 feet? This is required to disenagage the front hubs. 2) '91's had a problem with the grease in the front hubs "freezing" in cold weather. Maybe some '92's have this problem too??? If this happens, the front hubs will not unlock no matter how far you backup. 3) The motor that shifts the transfer case might have gone bad. 4) Sometimes mine doesn't disengage for several seconds after pressing the button. How long are you waiting? When staring at something, sometimes even a few seconds seems forever (too long). Walt (Early '91 4door 4x4 E.B.) ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 13 Dec 1995 10:10:04 -0600 From: John Kay To: explorer Subject: Disengaging/Engaging 4WD Message-Id: <199512131612.LAA26714@po_box.cig.mot.com> I've noticed this behavior at times as well. If I stop, put it in reverse, back up a foot or two, then back into drive, it solves this. (Isn't this what the manual says, I don't recall). I also have seen intermittent behavior when I tried engaging 4WD for the first time this snow season and got no response (no dash light, no hub engage). Several presses of the button later, it engaged. Any clues on how to troubleshoot this? John John C. Kay Motorola kay@cig.mot.com Cellular Infrastructure Group PH:(708)632-2519 Fax:(708)632-6999 Arlington Heights, IL 60004 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 13 Dec 95 13:44:53 EST From: E-COMMERCE USER SUPPORT To: explorer Cc: nestor@mkots4.ENET.dec.com Subject: 4WD not engaging Message-Id: <9512131843.AA07541@us2rmc.zko.dec.com> Ralph Ingoglia wrote on Dec 12th regarding the 4WD in his 92 Explorer not disengaging. What a coincidence, over the last couple of days I've been thinking of writing about the 4WD not ENGAGING in my 91 Explorer 5spd. Last year I swapped around the 40 amp fuses in the power distribution box and got it to work but now even when I swap them its dead, no response at all. Are we both having the same problem? It just makes me wonder when I call the Ford demon (I mean dealer) and they tell me they have no idea of what might cause this, so I have to pay around $50.00 an hour for a mechanic to look at this and hope that he can figure it out. Does anyone have some knowledge about the electronic shift system that might help us? Barry Nestor Digital Equipment Corp. Merrimack, NH. ------------------------------ Date: 13 Dec 1995 11:31:11 PST From: "Penelope Fink" To: explorer Subject: re: 4WD not disengaging Message-Id: We had a similar experience to Ralph's last winter where we couldn't disengage 4WD, but, as I remember it, in our case the lights did not go out but correctly indicated that 4WD was still engaged. I don't remember if it was unusually cold, but it was shortly after leaving the house so the engine was cold. My husband was driving and tried various things, probably including turning off ignition. The problem resolved itself within a short period and so far has not returned - I'm keeping my fingers crossed though since we just got our first snow for this winter. Penny ('92 Eddie Bauer, 106,000+ smiles) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Dec 95 8:45:06 PST From: kenneth.ainsworth@bangate1.TEK.COM To: explorer Subject: 4X4 not engaging Message-Id: Barry, I recently had problems with 4X4 engagement on my '92 Explorer. Pushed the dash button, no lights, no engagement. It turned out to be (I think) an intermittent electrical connection at the control module, which is located just forward of the rear window washer reservoir. I checked all the connectors for looseness, then started the troubleshooting procedure (Ford has a very nice diagnostic procedure in the factory service manual). This requires removing the two connectors, and making voltage and resistance measurements. I did not find anything wrong, so I plugged the connectors back in. Guess what... it now worked. I suspect I cleared an intermittant connection in the process of removing and reattaching the connectors. You might try this. ken ainsworth kenneth.ainsworth@tek.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Dec 1995 11:06:49 -0700 (MST) From: gribble@primenet.com To: explorer Subject: 4X4 - Engagment/diseng problem - Oil pressure conversion Message-Id: <199512141806.LAA14813@usr5.primenet.com> **4wheel drive in/out Several people have commented on problems getting their Explorer in and/or out of 4wheel drive. I noticed even when my 92 was new that just pushing the button the way one normally would (like to change a radio station) often didn't result in the 4x4 mechanism doing anything. It seemed to work much better to push AND hold the button in for one or two seconds and then release it. Possibly what's happening is that there are some limit switches and if you just jab the button you don't make the motor turn far enough to let it move past the "off" limit switchs so it seems nothing is happening. Anyway, those of you who seem to be having problems might try holding the button and if that helps please report back to the list. It might be an item that should go in the FAQ list. ** Oil pressure gauge modification I followed the info in the FAQ and modified my gauge. The resulting pointer position was lower on the scale then I liked. If anyone else has that problem and is interested in how to bring it up let me know and I'll write up what to do. ------------------------------ Date: 14 Dec 95 22:05:07 EST From: Chris Stoddard <71552.100@compuserve.com> To: explorer Subject: Stuck in 4WD & Radiator Repairs Message-ID: <951215030506_71552.100_EHL85-1@CompuServe.COM> A few thoughts, folks: First, it is possible that your Explorer is shifting out of 4WD, but that the hubs are still engaged. This is proper behavior for the truck, because the hubs will only disengage if you reverse direction for several feet, after the transfer case has been shifted out of 4X4 mode. It will seem (sound) as if you are still in 4WD if the hubs are still engaged, because everything will continue to spin with the front wheels. It is important to note that there is no real harm caused by driving this way (in 2-wheel drive, with the front hubs still locked) other than a little extra drag and noise. Having the front hubs locked doesn't mean that you are in 4WD! On the other hand, it is possible that you are indeed stuck in 4WD (even though the lights have gone out). The service manual recognizes this situation; it is caused either 1) by things being very cold (sounds like your case) or 2) by having drivetrain windup from driving on dry (or wet) pavement while in 4WD. The only solution they offer is to drive until things warm up a bit (for case 1) or try to get the drivetrain "unwound" by driving on dirt or bumps, or by backing up (for case 2). Supposedly, the control module will continue to try to honor your (2WD shift) request, until the shift actually takes place, so there's probably no real point in dancing on the control button. There's no good way to avoid situation 1. To avoid situation 2, be really careful to only use 4WD on surfaces with some slip to them. So, be careful, but don't panic if it sticks in 4WD every now and then. It will shift eventually. >Barry, I was told by the Ford shop that the outer-seam of the radiator had >come undone. They sent it out to be rewelded. The inner (plastic) core was >OK. ---Snip----- > My radiator had to be > replaced about a year ago because the epoxy that holds the plastic tanks to > the fins eventually lets go and a radiator shop told my mechanic that there > is no way to repair this. So, I guess Im curious as to what kind of (epoxy?) > they are going to try and use to fix yours? The radiator consists of plastic tanks held to an aluminum core by crimped (aluminum) tabs. Each is sealed to the core with an o-ring. No epoxy in the equation, unless things have been repaired. Repairs can be made to the aluminum core using an epoxy patch kit, sandpaper, a wire brush and a heat lamp. The sandpaper and wire brush are used to prepare the area and the heat lamp is used to pre-warm the area and to cure the epoxy, after mixing and applying. This is the only Ford-approved technique for repairing the aluminum core. The epoxy patch kit recommended by Ford is 'EPOXI-PATCH KIT No. 6C', available from Hysol Division of the Dexter Corporation, Olean, NY 14760 I have a high level of confidence in this technique, as Ford wouldn't likely recommend procedures that waste the dealers' time. Also, Dexter Hysol is a well recognized manufacturer of first class adhesives. Sorry folks... ran a little long again. I hope I've answered a question or two... Chris Stoddard ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Dec 95 13:21:48 UTC From: kc8ux@w8dc.ampr.org To: explorer Subject: 4x4 Non Engagement Message-Id: <76331@w8dc.ampr.org> Well folks I had the 4x4 non-engagment thing happen to me as well. It turned out to be the 4x4 motor (looks like a windshield wiper motor!!) List price is: $342.00!!! Big money for a small part. I am glad I had the Ex-Warranty. If you find that your pushbutton is not working - it may be worth a trip to the junque-yard to get a "used" part to try to make it work. Ron - 93 XL - 45000k --------------------------------------------------------------------------- XXIII. How do I repair the radiator? Date: 14 Dec 95 22:05:07 EST From: Chris Stoddard <71552.100@compuserve.com> To: explorer Subject: Stuck in 4WD & Radiator Repairs Message-ID: <951215030506_71552.100_EHL85-1@CompuServe.COM> >Barry, I was told by the Ford shop that the outer-seam of the radiator had >come undone. They sent it out to be rewelded. The inner (plastic) core was >OK. ---Snip----- > My radiator had to be > replaced about a year ago because the epoxy that holds the plastic tanks to > the fins eventually lets go and a radiator shop told my mechanic that there > is no way to repair this. So, I guess Im curious as to what kind of (epoxy?) > they are going to try and use to fix yours? The radiator consists of plastic tanks held to an aluminum core by crimped (aluminum) tabs. Each is sealed to the core with an o-ring. No epoxy in the equation, unless things have been repaired. Repairs can be made to the aluminum core using an epoxy patch kit, sandpaper, a wire brush and a heat lamp. The sandpaper and wire brush are used to prepare the area and the heat lamp is used to pre-warm the area and to cure the epoxy, after mixing and applying. This is the only Ford-approved technique for repairing the aluminum core. The epoxy patch kit recommended by Ford is 'EPOXI-PATCH KIT No. 6C', available from Hysol Division of the Dexter Corporation, Olean, NY 14760 I have a high level of confidence in this technique, as Ford wouldn't likely recommend procedures that waste the dealers' time. Also, Dexter Hysol is a well recognized manufacturer of first class adhesives. Sorry folks... ran a little long again. I hope I've answered a question or two... Chris Stoddard --------------------------------------------------------------------------- XXIV. Where can I get more Explorer information? Date: Thu, 14 Dec 95 05:37:16 PST From: "J. G. Ermer" To: explorer Subject: Service Manual Rip-Off !!! Message-Id: Well, I just received my $102 service manual ($97 plus $5 shipping; owner's manual said $4 shipping) for the 1996 Explorer. At first, I was puzzled as to why they called it a "supplement." (It was not referred to as a supplement in the owner's manual). As I thumbed-through it, I noticed the section on brakes was only two pages long. Curious as to why this was, I found written in the front of the manual: "This 1996 Service Manual Supplement covers information which is new for the 1996 model year." "For any procedure not covered in this manual, refer to the 1995 Aerostar, Ranger, Explorer Powertrain, Drivetrain or Body Chassis Service Manuals." In other words, WHAT A RIP-OFF!!! I consider most of the supplemental information useless to me (i.e. V8 engine), and it will cost me $25 to return this relatively worthless book. If I bought the 1995 Service Manual, would it refer me to the 1994 one, and so on? Can anyone recommend a more comprehensive service manual (and probably cheaper, too) for the 95/96 Ford Explorer? Thank you. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- end of faq END -- Cut Here -- cut here -Jerry Macala (Immediate Past) President- Maltose Falcons Home Brewing Society 1994 Anchor Home Brew Club of the Year!